Cruises.com.au Blog

Durnstein and biking

When discussing how river cruising is attracting a more active clientele these days, the constant example given is that the boats today carry bicycles for guests to use along the banks of the river. That’s true – and the Amabella has brand new bikes with the easiest gear change I’ve ever encountered. For those of you who biked to school it’s the treadly equivalent of an automatic transmission.

The bit that isn’t mentioned so much is that there are very few days when cycling is practical. Some excursions are too short or too far away from the river or city traffic is just too scary for an antipodean cyclist. Cycling alongside the river, preferably while wearing a beret and carrying a fresh baguette in the non-existent carrier basket and waving gaily to locals, was a long held fantasy of mine that remains unsatisfied. The boat often cruises through the night so cycling from stop to stop would largely be cold, long and dark.

However, today we stopped in the pretty Danube-side village of Durnstein and had the chance to cycle through the afternoon to meet the boat 32 km further along, where it’d stop for a late afternoon excursion to Melk Abbey. With usual APT polished planning we didn’t even have to miss lunch.

To my limited understanding rivers are flat, with a gentle tilt downstream. We were heading upstream so I had to expect some elevation gained as we pedalled. It was with some surprise I found that the cycle path by the side of Danube swooped up and down from river bank to a seemingly endless bunch of perfectly maintained, unbearably cute villages. Despite the fact it was a work day I saw no sign of anyone working (except road workers installing detours up every available hill and mountain).

We’d set off before the Amabella so each drink break increased the anxiety that the boat would pass us and continue to Amsterdam without us. However, we all arrived at the port together and set off for Melk, a gilt-covered fantasy with far too many stairs for the occasional cyclist’s trembling legs.

Slept very well tonight.